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| Price : $259.72 | Post Date : Dec 18, 2011 08:57:18The PetSafe Wireless Fence pet containment system is a revolutionary concept that provides the safest, simplest form of pet containment ever. Plug in the transmitter somewhere inconspicuous in your home. The transmitter emits a 17.5 kHz radio signal around your home. Your pet wears a lightweight receiver collar that "listens" for the signal. While the collar is receiving the signal, your dog is free to run and play in your yard. When he approaches the boundary of the signal area, he receives a warning beep. If your dog does not return, he receives a static correction which is startling but not harmful. With a little simple training, your dog will quickly learn his boundaries. The training of your pet is a key element with the PetSafe Wireless Fence. Follow the easy instruction and training manual that is included. For use in the US only. This unit is compatible with all US 110v outlets and are not to be used with 220v international voltage.
It's a strange sight: a cat happily walking on a leash. If you remember the first time you put a collar on your kitten, then you are probably thinking that leash training is impossible. Although cats are strong willed and often stubborn, with a little patience and practice getting your cat to walk on a leash can be a possibility.
First of all, why would you want your cat to be able to walk on a leash? Do cats not get enough exercise indoors? There are many reasons an owner may want to leash train a feline. You take your dog out for a daily walk, while your cat looks longingly from the window. Why not take her out? If every time you open the door, your cat makes a run for it, then you may want to provide her the opportunity to spend time outdoors. Some physical problems, such as blindness, may require leash walking. There are a number of reasons why leash training will benefit you and your cat. Think hard, and you'll come up with one!
Like any type of training, leash training will take time. Think back to putting a collar on your cat for the first time. She probably bucked, jumped, and tried everything to get it off. But, what happened after a few hours? She completely forgot about the collar, and you haven't had a problem since. The good thing about leash training is that the collar is already there; you don't have to introduce her to that foreign object. If the collar isn't there, then you should take extra time in getting her accustomed to the collar. Don't introduce the collar one day and the leash the next; allow time between the two events. You may want to use a harness instead of using a collar. Harnesses are harder for your cat to wiggle out of, but the decision is completely up to you. Like introducing your cat to a collar, take time introducing her to a harness; and leave a fair amount of time between the harness and leash introductions.
Once your cat is accustomed to the feel of the collar or harness, then practice attaching the leash indoors. Hold the end of the leash and keep your cat in place. Don't pull or drag your cat; instead, try to keep a little slack in the leash. Let your kitty do what she needs to do to explore the leash. Keep the leash on for a few minutes and then take it off. Repeat this the following day, but keep the leash on a few minutes longer. Try walking around the house with her. Let her lead, while you follow. After a few days, your cat should be accustomed to the feel of the leash. Never get angry with your cat! Remember that training takes time and patience.
The first time you take your cat outdoors on the leash should be relaxed. If you live near a busy street, then consider taking a car trip to a park or other quiet place. You do not want your cat to be frightened the first time she is outdoors. During the first walk, let her lead and do what she wants to do. She will be curious and want to smell different plants and objects. Again, do not drag her or force her to move. It will take time for her to understand what it is you want her to do.
Never underestimate the power of treats! From the beginning, treats should be used to reward your cat. Every time you take off the leash, then give her a treat. If you have a cat that refuses to move while attached to the leash, then grab a few treats and a friend or family member. With you holding the leash, have your helper walk a few steps in front of you and coax your kitty with the treat. This may be a slow process, but your cat will soon learn that moving forward results in a treat.
A cat on a leash may be a funny sight, but leash training can be rewarding for both the cat and the owner. Whether your cat needs more exercise or you just want her to spend time outdoors, teaching her to walk on a leash is a way to make sure she's safe. Take time in training, and slowly introduce her to the equipment. Start indoors and then move to a quiet place outdoors. Always have treats handy to reward her for her efforts. With a little patience, you'll have a leash-walking cat in no time!
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Keeps pets in and small animals out. Contains one energizer, ten 23-Inch PVC fence poles, one 22-inch ground rod, 100-feet of aluminum wire, 50 cotter pins for fastening wire, one ground clamp and easy-to-follow instructions. Has intermittent AC output. Up to 1 mile range under ideal conditions. Output voltage: 800 V +/- 20% open circuit voltage SHOCK FENCER - Intermittent current output ~ Range up to 3 miles 110-120 volt ~ Fused panel protects from power surges ~ Uses (2) 1/16 amp time delay fuses
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| Price : $94.99Your furry pal may be big, but that doesn't mean he can't be trained! With the Deluxe Big Dog remote training system from PetSafe®, you can train your dog at home or at the park. There are 10 levels of stimulation, plus a tone-only option to help remind your big guy of all he's learned.
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Interdog and Human Aggression
As a behavioural concept interdog aggression is separate from aggression to humans. When looking at aggression is it prudent to consult your Vet, simply to rule out medical causes since there are over 50 medical reasons for aggression.
It is sometimes difficult for us mere humans to read the signals of dogs that are likely to or intend to attack us, we are not equipped to read the body language or subtle signs of our canine friends. Dogs for instance with drooping ears like the Weimaraner, or dogs with tails that curl over the back such as Akita's and Chows do not give the same signals of say a Collie or an Alsatian the classic erect tail and ears pulled back cannot be seen in some breeds which is also the case with hairy breeds, we cannot see the raised hackles and other obvious signs .
The majority of attacks are to family members, neighbours or people the owner of the dog knows. Because of the problems of overcrowding more attacks are town or city based rather than rural or agricultural areas. A sad fact of life is that often children are the victims. The incidence of facial reconstructive surgery in young children is not as many would imagine caused by car or other accidents it is predominantly dog bites.
The choice of dog also has a marked effect on whether dog aggression or bites may occur; the guarding breeds tend to guard, the herders tend to herd and the retrieving dogs predominantly retrieve. Therefore if a dog had been bred to guard we cannot therefore be overly surprised it does just that.
It is very unusual for a dog to suddenly attack for no apparent reason ie out of the blue attacks are almost unknown. we have all met the person who's dog attacks your dog or nips your ankles and the plaintive cry is "Oh he has never done that before" I even had a lady owner who's dog attacked mine who said exactly that. Then the very next day the same dog did it again and she uttered the same mantra, I pointed out that she may wish to be tested for Alzheimer's.
Owners go into denial over their dog's behaviour. They excuse the aggressive Terrier or the nipping Collie or the growling miniature breeds because that they perceive this is acceptable behaviour for the breed. This mindset normally means the dogs is not checked when it was first observed allowing the trait to become stronger and eventually very difficult to eradicate.
I have found that the majority of aggressions to be fear based though we often categorise them as Predatory, Sexual, Territorial, Protective, and Nervous/Fear Aggression. Having said all that it is rare indeed for the dog to have just one of the problems mentioned above, and the worse combination is Dominant and Nervous/Fear aggression linked together. Dog aggression problems often have their roots in early games and contact with other dogs, especially dogs from the same household that regularly played games. Taking responsibility and controlling games should give the owner control over each dog and help both in the short and long term this type of unacceptable behaviour
Intact non-neutered males are more likely to exhibit dominance aggression than neutered males or spayed females. It is more likely that this is controlled by androgen since females who show aggression before puberty and who are spayed become more aggressive. Dominance aggression and Protective aggression are the number 1 and number 2 causes of treatment by behaviourists.
Interdog aggression. Is generally social in context and can occur between dogs within the same house, and is never hormone driven, although it generally starts at social maturity (18 to 24 months). The dog is challenged by a stare or a bump or body block, and then each dog behaves in reaction to what the other dog did.
Strange dogs meeting -- even with two dogs fighting -- generally they are responding to protective aggression (and the classic lead aggression in some cases). A characteristic of interdog aggression is that the aggressive intentions are not displayed to other animals. The dog may live amicably with cats, horses, and other animals or pets.
Protective aggression is stimulated by sudden movements. Frequently the dog inhibits the Behaviour in the absence of its owners (no owner to protect) or in strange places (dog shows are fine). Dominance aggression occurs overwhelmingly in males (90% of cases), first obvious at social maturity (18 to 24 months), worsens with punishment, and may run in family lines. This type of aggression is the type which is looked for at the 8 week puppy test. If identified at that age, early intervention is required to save the dog; but not all dogs with dominant aggression can be identified at 8 weeks.
Most of us have dogs who display signs of territorial aggression: our dogs bark at someone at the door, protect the car, bark as people pass on the pavement. All social animals exhibit some protective aggression . This behaviour is increased by fences; the dog is able to continuously "patrol" and protect, and the behaviour is made extremely bad if the dog is in an electric fence or chained. It can also be made worse if "door greeting" abnormalities are tolerated: the owner greets someone at the door with the dog held back whilst straining on the collar.
For Dominance aggression, in contrast to Protective aggression, there is more growling, snarling, biting, and staring. Barking is considered a sign of protective aggression -- think about barking dogs as you pass a garden. Dominance aggression is considered a concept of control, unlike possession of an object (food aggression) or challenge (will the dog get off the sofa or growl?). Dominance aggression is more common with men owners who like the concept of "big, tough dogs" and so some breeds might be more likely to be diagnosed.
But the worst dominant aggressive dogs I have dealt with, have normally been Toy Poodles and Shih Tzus - their Behaviour is more likely to be seen as innocent and owner tolerant. There are some 15 things people do to exacerbate dominance aggression -- as simple as staring at the dog or pushing on their rump, leaning over them, making a leash correction. There are some 20 or so signs that the dog intends to become dominant aggressive -- as innocent as standing on your feet, leaning against you, "talking back," standing in front of you in the doorway, jumping in your lap, these signs are often tolerated in smaller dogs.
Dogs with dominance aggression are categorised in behaviour as those who think they are Alpha's-- able to control people and get things their own way -- a bad, bad prognosis usually. And then there are those dogs where all the signs were there. First, although other aggressive Behaviour is not a predictor for dominance aggression, dominance aggression is about control and the dog generally has other forms of aggression also.
Second, When the dog has escalated through several signs of dominance aggression, standing on people, sitting in laps, and it's allowed by the owner. Then the dog thinks it's in charge -- like when the teenager starts to talk back to test boundaries. This class of dogs will alter its Behaviour to the individual. The dog may not behave aggressively with an experienced trainer (the trainer is in charge), or when it's eating it may not bark at people passing by. The dog can interrupt and inhibit the aggressive Behaviour, but chooses its time when not to react.
This actually is the easiest dog to work with since the dog is capable of taking cues from context and behaving appropriately. However it would be extremely difficult to determine the exact genetics for this Behaviour, since development of the behaviour depends not only on the genes but also the owner situation. If the dog was genetically predisposed but owned by a good trainer and discouraged at an early age from barking at say the door, it may not exhibit the trait. On the other hand, a dog who may genetically be less predisposed but encouraged to exhibit the Behaviour becomes a major problem.
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The PetSafe Stubborn Dog Collar is for the Occasional "Hard-Headed" Dog.
This is the most powerful dog fence collar available With FIVE LEVELS OF CORRECTION PLUS VIBRATION as an added deterrent. This is a true breakthrough in pet containment.
The PetSafe Stubborn Dog Collar is for the occasional hard-to-train dog and is compatible with all PetSafe, Radio Fence and Pet Guardian Brand underground dog fences. It weighs just 3 ounces and measures 2.25 x 1.5 x 1.25 inches. It is three times more powerful than our regular dog fence collars and is designed with stubborn or hard to train dogs.
Because of its size, this receiver should be used for dogs that are 20 pounds or larger. The Stubborn Dog Collar comes complete with collar, short probes for short hair dogs and long probes for long hair dogs. The Stubborn Dog Collar requires a 9 volt battery (Not Included). We have 9 volt batteries available in a two pack. Don't forget to order batteries Here when ordering the Stubborn Dog Collar.
Features:
* Dogs that are consistently breaking through the boundary and need a stronger receiver * Five Levels of Programmable Correction plus a vibration feature in the warning tone as an additional deterrent * Level one is warning only with vibration - ideal for initial training or very timid pets * Levels two thru four are for easy or average to train pets * Level five is for very hard to train or stubborn pets * Progressive Correction - if your pet attempts to leave the yard, the receiver will automatically increase the correction level until he returns * Anti Linger so the dog cannot stay in the warning zone and run down the battery * Levels are easily changed with a push of a button on the receiver * Uses a common 9 volt battery providing a average battery life of 6-9 months. Sold Separately * Low Battery Indicator Light - Lets you know when the batteries
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